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All taxis in Jordan are yellow with green panels in Arabic on both front doors, and they'll go anywhere. Inexpensive and quite often essential within Amman, their good value declines the further field you want to go; renting a taxi to cover the transport-thin eastern desert, for instance, will cost you almost twice as much as if you drove there yourself in a rental car. As far as fares go, other than within Amman city limits you'll have to negotiate with the driver before setting off. Ballpark figures for particular routes are given in the guide, but where you're inventing your own itinerary, you'd do well to ask the advice of a disinterested party (but not a hotel receptionist) beforehand Jordanian women would never get in the front seat next to the driver (there's just one female taxi-driver in the whole country), and foreign women should follow suit.

Most rent-a-car agencies can provide a driver for the day for about JD15 on top of the price of the rental; on a longer trip, JD35 a day should cover his food and accommodation costs.

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