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The only usable passenger train tracks in Jordan are the Hejaz Railway running from the Syrian border through Mafraq, Zerqa and Amman, and on into the desert via Qatraneh to Ma'an. The single regular service is a once-weekly train from Amman to Damascus; South of Amman, the unguarded line runs through open desert and the resident Bedouin tend to rip up the rails for building joists when no one's looking; the only services into the desert are occasional steam trains chartered by visiting enthusiasts or tour groups. For your very own fully equipped steam locomotive pulling a comfortable carriage or two, prices start as low as JD200; rising the further you want to go. Call the Hejaz Jordan Railway (Tel: O6/4895413), offices in Amman, for details of chartering your own train

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